B&Tailor jacket by way of Robin Pettersson: Evaluation – Everlasting Type


I had this tweed jacket made by South Korean home B&Tailor over the previous 18 months, utilizing Robin Petterson – a Swede who does their fittings in London and at residence in Stockholm.

Sadly, though the tip end result isn’t too dangerous (simply a few excellent points) the method has been fairly poor – it took 5 fittings to get to this stage.

I initially met Changjin and the remainder of the B&Tailor workforce at our Younger Tailors Symposium again in June 2016. Sponsors Holland & Sherry provided to pay for a go well with with them (or jacket and trousers on this case) with the intention to cowl the service, and B&Tailor measurements there.

We had the primary becoming that Autumn, when Robin was in London for a trunk present. There have been some pretty giant points instantly – specifically the steadiness left to proper, which was inflicting the jacket to break down beneath the arm on one aspect.

The flannel trousers, which I had requested to have with ‘kissing’ pleats having seen these on Chad, have been additionally reasonably too small within the seat, forcing these pleats open.

On the subsequent becoming in December, these points appeared to not have been corrected, and this was a sample that will repeat itself over the following six months.

Robin famous the problems, chalked the fabric, took images, and made his personal notes to ship again to the workforce in Seoul. However at every becoming some adjustments appeared to not have been made, with Robin typically not sure why this was.

The jacket continued to enhance in some methods, with the size appropriate and the collar sitting nicely, as an example, however elementary points across the steadiness and the sleevehead remained, with a becoming in March after which once more in June.

The trousers proved hopeless. The seat was taken out twice, however there wasn’t sufficient inlay to take action to the extent wanted, they usually needed to be remade. I’ve had one becoming thus far on the brand new pair.

After a fifth becoming in October, I requested for the jacket to be despatched to me, so I might not less than have it photographed and canopy it.

The end result, proven right here, has solely two vital points: the appropriate sleevehead is pulled too tight and because of this creases horizontally; and the entrance/again steadiness is somewhat off, with the again too brief in comparison with the entrance.

The sleeves are additionally round 2cm too brief (in all probability from alterations to attempt to repair these sleeveheads) however that may be modified pretty simply.

In any other case, I fairly just like the B&Tailor model, as I do know loads of others do.

It attracts on influences from each Florence and Naples (once more, as many different new tailors do) with a comparatively extensive lapel, low gorge and barely prolonged shoulder.

The development may be very gentle, and I’d be comfy sporting one thing this informal and evenly padded with denims.  

The one factor I don’t like is the slimness of the sleeve. That is at all times somewhat restrictive and actually shouldn’t be as flattering as a bigger sleeve, regardless of many males’s instincts.

As to what has gone improper with the becoming of the jacket, B&Tailor say they aren’t positive having by no means seen me in it. Robin says the method would have been completely different had he taken the measurements initially (although you may need thought 5 fittings might appropriate issues).

Actually, I can’t advocate the service primarily based on this expertise. And whereas I’ve seen another good items on buddies, I’ve additionally heard some damaging experiences.

Given the problems, I’ll probably go someplace native, corresponding to Graham Browne, to have the remaining points fastened. 

Robin fees SEK19,000 (£1,700) for a sports activities jacket via B&Tailor, and SEK24,500 (£2,200) for a go well with (together with most cloths). He’s normally right here each couple of months.

Robin has been coaching himself with a tailor in Sweden, and affords a full vary of tailoring beneath his personal title. He additionally affords bespoke shirts via 100 Arms and a variety of customized denims.

By way of B&Tailor, he spent three weeks with them in Seoul studying becoming with their clothes. B&Tailor additionally work with different distant fitters in different elements of the world.  

The jacket material, by the way in which, is a very nice yellow herringbone tweed from Holland & Sherry that I used to be enthusiastic about utilizing. 

I see it because the informal equal of my oatmeal-cashmere jacket from Elia Caliendo. It’s equally versatile, working with each color of trouser besides the paler tans and greys.

And it manages to be an off-the-cuff jacket that works with denims, with out being the same old nation brown or inexperienced (or certainly, something brighter or extra uncommon).

Sadly, the bunch has been discontinued by Holland & Sherry for the reason that jacket was initially commissioned (one other drawback of it taking so lengthy!). It was 883205, from the SherryTweed vary, 100% wool at 11oz. 

Holland & Sherry are bringing out a substitute tweed bunch within the Autumn. 

Elsewhere within the outfit I’m sporting:

Pictures: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man


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